I have an inspection scope camera that I'm attempting to repair. It's one with a camera on the end of a flexible rod to see into tight spaces. The pins that lead to the camera came out of the connector. I tried looking for teardowns or even replacement parts, but found nothing.
Two pins are still inserted, but I'm not confident they are in the right places. I want to get it working without the risk of frying everything. I've done my best to find where each pin goes, but there's not enough info for me figure it out on my own. The camera rod also includes an LED for light.
Here's a photo of the connector as it is:
And here is the socket with it's pins labeled (the labels correspond to the testing pads and not to the socket pins):
I'm seeding/cross-post this in 3 communities because I think I will get better answers in each respective one (Hardware, coding, electronics).
As the title say I'm want to learn to build from the ground up those cheap solar led/optic fiber lightning, here some images to get what I mean:
They come in bundles but after awhile they just die out without repair ability which kinda sucks and because they are cheap my mum keeps buying them... So, I would like to build ones I'm able to repair and customize :). However I have absolutely NO idea where to begin and what exactly I'm searching for... I'm lacking the skills and knowledge on the 3
I replaced this battery last fall, but it has drained over the winter. The auto-mower dock wont charge it. Is there any feasible way to charge it safely? Or is it dead at that voltage?
It’s a Bosch Indego 400. Thanks in advance.
I'm making a driver for a small 15V, hall sensored, 9-slot BLDC motor I got off of AliExpress. It has u,v,w inputs. Three hall outputs and Vcc, Gnd for them. No datasheet :)
I understand the working principle: I'll have to use the hall sensors to figure out the location of the rotor, then power the appropriate windings.
Trouble is, I don't know how the windings for the three phases are arranged within the motor. So I don't know which pin to give power to, because I don't know which windings within the motor will then be powered.
How can I figure out where the windings are for each phase?
I'm guessing I've got to manually spin the motor and do some detective work with back-emf measurements and hall sensor outputs to figure this out?
I've an UPS but it's not working fine. Disassembled it a bit and tested components that I could without unsoldering, everything seems good. Then the problem is :
Normally I should be able to connect the batteries and the UPS would just be in "sleep" mode, the screen would be fully light up but the UPS should be off
The problem here is that firstly when I plug batteries the fan turns on, it should not and only turned on when on batteries but when the UPS is on
The second problem is that the screen doesn't work as intended. This is a screen that has prewritten zone that just have to be lighted up (don't know the name of this kind of screens, the type like in digital clock), here only the backlight is lighted up (normally all the possible drawing are lighted up too), but quickly it begins to drop in lightness to turn black at the end (the fan continues running)
Check the batteries they are 2 x 12V at 12.6V here
So I'm not sure what the right community for this is but I'm hoping yall can help. I'm a refrigeration service tech and recently I was tasked with replacing a sensor in a room used to store ethanol drums. Due to the nature of the room every device in it had to be rated explosion proof and I couldn't use any tools that could pose any risk of ignition (no heat gun, basically nothing with an electric motor, and definitely no open flames) while working in there. Normally when I splice wires I use heatshrink to cover the splice simply because it looks far more professional than electrical tape and it holds up better over time. However in this case I could not figure out any way of shrinking said heatshrink without posing a potential ignition hazard so I was stuck just wrapping the splice in tape. We do a lot of work for this company so I'm hoping to find a better solution for the next time I am in a similar situation.
So do any of you know any way to shrink heatshrink without posing an ign
Hi all! I'm a firmware developer with little knowledge in analog electronics.. I deal with firmware for IOT projects all the time.
I had to make a breakout board with an off the shelf RF module with self contained PCB antenna. Now I'm intrigued in the hardware side. I'm inclined to design them from scratch myself. (Obviously ignoring the EMI and FCC certifications for the time being).
What concepts should I be familiar with to achieve this? Starting on I figured to brush up on circuit theory and signals. Where do I go from here? What materials would you recommend? Hopefully I don't need to get into hardcore RF theory to design these PCBs (I know kicad already has these premade antenna blocks).
I'd like to build a small light that i can use to cast a shadow to a wall.
It needs a single led that's really small and bright and that can be recharged. Also I want to put it in a special casing.
However I don't really know how to build one myself. So I had the I bright idea to take apart a flashlight that is rechargeable, but I'm not sure which one can be dismantled.
Do you have any idea what flashlight I could use or what parts I would need?
I have an UPS with two 12v 7ah lead batteries. If I want to change the batteries I would typically go with lead batteries but here's my question, can I use some portable mobile power banks to use it?
Because I have a 20000mah "INUI" lithium power bank that is rated for 12v at 1.5A, is it a good practice to buy several of these (since they are about 20 bucks) disassemble them and use them as ups batteries?
So, i'm thinking of a story and i need some tech info.
How risky is to de-solder an usb plug if the flash-drive contains important files? It would be relatively safe for someone capable, or the heat is way too risky for the chip/content?
Also there's any (MacGyver like) way to quickly access the file or reconnect the plug without a solder while only having access to office supplies?
I have a pet project I've been working on to modernize an electric organ console, and one of the final things needed are toggle switches. On a modern organ these are able to be manually toggled, or they can be flipped up/down programmatically using electromagnets (video). The ones purpose built for this are obscenely expensive but I can't find anything even remotely similar. Am I crazy for thinking this kind of switch are used in more things than just organs?
Do you have some recommendations for a soldering station that would meet my needs?
I've been into hobby electronics for a few years, doing mostly analog audio projects but recently got into repairing and repurposing broken electronics (Bluetooth earbuds, speakers, USB cables and such).
I've been using a cheap Parkside(LIDL)-rebranded "generic Chinese product" (I came across the exact same model on AliExpress, in different colors); which has served me well until now but has a few flaws that I can't be bothered with anymore.
Mainly:
-it takes ages to get hot.
-the cable going from the station to the iron is super thick and stiff, which is annoying as hell...
I would like it to be the least expensive possible, while being good enough I'd be happy with it for the foreseeable future.
I've got a used riello ups recently and it was not working since the beginning. The UPS was switching to batteries most of the time, but sometimes it just don't switch to batteries and makes a continuous beep (riello manual tells that it's a UPS fault anything except an overload).
I left it 2 weeks without using it. But know it won't start at all. Don't have the materials to test components for now but what are your ideas?
(Even when plugged in the wall it wouldn't start)
I've got a few projects on the list which will be battery powered. I'm thinking of using 18650s just because of how ubiquitous they are, but I know there's other options out there. Are they worth it?