I am building some simple "pallets" out of 4x4 lumber to ship some machines.

The plan is to screw the feet of the machines to the top of 8 foot long 4x4s, and then to screw shorter 4x4s, probably about 4 feet, to the top of them as crossbars to move the machines with pallet jacks. Basically, I'd have a rectangle 8 feet long by 4 feet wide with the weight being supported from above by the crossbars. I'm not sure how much the machines weigh, but as a guesstimate, I'd put them at about 600 lbs each.

My question is what type and length of screws should I be using for this? I may double up on the cross bars if it doesn't feel strong enough to safely carry the weight. Given I'm using 4x4s, I'll have about 7" of wood to work with, I imagine 6 inches would be a minimum length, but I don't know if I need some thicker screws, in which case I might need to drill some pilot holes.

Thanks for the help

I haven't seen one of these in a few days, so I thought I'd toss in one of my own.

It's meant for via ferrata to reduce the impact of falling on static gear. You loop a short rope through the holes and it absorbs the forces of the fall by friction of the rope slipping through. This is the Kong Kisa.

Recently my micro SD card failed and I had to to a full reinstall of klipper.

When I first set it up, I found a guide with pictures and all the software setup specifically for the ADXL345 and Pi Zero 2, but I can't find the guide anymore.

Everything's already wired, but I definitely don't remember how to set everything up.

Currently running Nobara, and having audio annoyances.

Any time any app loads anything new, it will switch my audio device back to default. For example, if I open a playlist in VLC and choose my speakers as the output device, when it's done playing one file, it will open the next one and start playing audio through the headphones.

If I'm watching a video on Youtube and choose speakers, as soon as I leave the page it goes back to headphones.

Is there a way to prevent the device in use from switching back? If I switch device, I just want it to stay on that device until I choose to switch back. I literally never want it to switch on its own. ATM, the only way is to manually go it and change the default every time instead of just clicking the checkbox in the volume popup.

This is a recent issue, and I don't know what has changed to cause it. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to which games work and which ones don't. My monitor's resolution is set to 2560 x 1440 in the display settings, but some games don't recognize it.

Of the games I have installed, Subnautica, Dark Souls III, Sekiro, Control, Hades, and Hi-Fi Rush think my native resolution is 1896 x 1067 and they won't let me change it to anything higher than that.

Elden Ring, Ark Survival Ascended, and Returnal detect my resolution correctly and work fine.

This is all from Steam without any custom launch settings, and with and without gamescope. I've tried custom resolution command line options for Subnautica and that hasn't helped either.

I'm running an RX 6700 XT on Nobara with everything currently up to date. I'm not sure when this issue started, but it's recent, probably within the last week or so. I've definitely run Control and Sekiro at the correct resolution before, but in my recen

I haven't bought from Amazon in several years, but I made an exception for this deal. I've never seen this go below $80 before.

Are there any software issues I may/should deal with when doing a full system upgrade? I'm going from AM4 to AM5, so new CPU, motherboard and RAM.

It should be pretty straightforward under Linux, right? Just swap my drives over and boot up? I've only ever done single upgrades at a time, never a full generation.

So it's a SFF case meant for NAS use. It has 5 slide-in 3.5" drive bays and can only handle a low-profile PCIE card.

I'm thinking of picking one up and mangling it to force in a 2-slot GPU. I want to basically remove the drive bays and the PCB with the SATA slots, ditch the PSU frame, move the motherboard frame back or flip it around, and 3d print a new backplate for the case.

I'd stick the PSU where the drive bay used to be and run an extension to the back of the case, and then there should be room for a full-sized GPU mounted vertically in the case.

Do you think this would be achievable? Am I crazy for even thinking about it?

Now if only I could also fit an AIO in there.

EDIT: Link to the case - https://www.jonsbo.com/en/products/N1.html

I've had the game running fine for months, but experience constant crashes if I have foliage and fluid interaction enabled. Has anyone been able to run the game with this on?

Currently on Pop!OS running a 6700XT, and having the issue under both X and Wayland.

Is anybody else dealing with this? In game mode updates install normally, but if I go into desktop mode, updates stall and never finish downloading. And unfortunately you don't get to install desktop updates from game mode.

My internet connection works fine on firefox, and is plenty fast, so it's not a connectivity issue. I'm not sure what's going on.

A friend of mine was a gamer many years ago but hasn't been gaming in a while. They run a Mac and I run a PC. What are some good patient games we can play together?

Every time I use calibrate_probe, I get the message "The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file with the above and restart the printer."

When I click Save Config, it restarts the firmware, and then I get the warning "Option 'z_offset' in section 'bltouch' must be specified."

If I go check my printer.cfg, the [bltouch] section now has z_offset commented out with the old value and I have to remove the comment and copy in the new value.

Am I missing something? What am I doing wrong?

I'm getting increasingly frustrated trying to get my printer calibrated. I've done a bed calibration using screws_tilt_calculate, and that's all nice and good. Got a bed mesh variance of 0.19mm which seems great.

Now for the z-offset, it won't let me get the nozzle low enough. No matter how low I set the Z minimum, it won't let me get closer than about 0.5mm to the bed. I've tried setting the position_min in [stepper_z] anywhere from 0 to -9 and I get the same result every time.

If I raise the bed, the probe adjust its height accordingly, so the result is the same.

What can I do to fix this?

I picked it up and have been playing it. The first day, it seemed to run fine, but today I've been having a ton of trouble with it. I'm struggling to go 15 minutes without crashing, and when it does crash, Steam stops responding entirely until I reboot.

Edit: I can't explain why, but after checking my logs, whenever my computer full-crashes, it's apparently caused by bluetooth, despite not having any connected bluetooth devices. I've disabled the bluetooth service, and now the game only crashes to desktop. Small wins, I guess.

Another edit: I appear to have fixed my problem. I installed gamemode via apt, and added 'gamemoderun %command%' to the launch options in Steam. Haven't crashed since.

I want to print a simple mechanism to adjust the distance between two pieces with a screw that can't come out of its socket on either end. What's the easiest way to model this?

I just got a glass build plate for my S1 Pro, and I'm not sure of the best way to use it. The bed has two screws at the back that stick up a bit past the magnetic sheet and the PEI build plate has two notches to accommodate them, which helps line up the plate. The glass build plate doesn't have any notches, so it can't go flush all the way to the back.

The glass plate is sized the same as the bed, but it can't fit on the bed without hanging off the front of it. Is this normal?

Edit: So the screws on the bed are literally just for the alignment of the magnetic PEI plate. They can be taken out without issue. I tried looking up videos before I posted, and none of them have the same bed as mine, they all seem to have a full-surface magnetic sheet and a full-surface PEI plate.

I've recently harvested about 5 lbs of habaneros from two plants I was growing. What the hell do I do with so many peppers? I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to give at least half of them away.

I know that paint doesn't work well with TPU and that the typical way to color a piece is with dye. Does anyone have experience decorating prints that will see heavy use? Like if I wanted to use multiple colors, can dyes be brushed on similar to how one might hand paint a model? Is there a better way to do what I want?

My work gave me a L2 switch because they were going to toss it out. Is there any reason for me to use that over the built-in switch from my ISP's router/modem?