Not sure why I would need a photo for what has become a common practice in Germany. Taking pics of cops just risks triggering aggression so I would need good reason to do it.

Bro, I am full on privacy but if you are crossing borders, it is very normal to get checked for ID and all,

No it is not normal to arbitrarily check ID at a Schengen border crossing.

I am seriously baffled… that 2 people would think an unwarranted general demand for ID papers without probable cause and then recording the data in a centralised tracking database is not relevant to privacy. How on earth do you arrive at that?

Is it that you don’t care about being physically tracked yourself, and from there conclude it’s not a privacy issue? Do you have something like Snapchat broadcasting your realtime physical location anyway?

I must say it’s alarming how the basic concepts of privacy has gotten lost on the younger generations to such extent. The modern day global concept of privacy is to a very large extent driven by papers being demanded in Germany in the 1940s. If it were not for 1940s Germany, privacy communities in Lemmy very well might not even exist today.

How could this possibly be unrelated to privacy?

They were not just looking at IDs to look for Turks (which IIRC is the reason they are doing it).. they were scanning everyone’s ID into a centralised system to generally track people’s movement -- even IDs issued by neighboring countries.

Privacy is about control. In this case, the privacy invasion reduces freedom of movement (control over your own travel).

I am the source. My bus was pulled over, which never happens when entering other Schengen nations. But if you think I am lying and the bus driver is lying, you can easily search for sources you trust. But you seem confused. You struggle to believe it while at the same time claiming the police are doing their job. Feels like cognitive dissonance. Or is it that you are in disbelief that the police would do their job (as you see it)? A search will help you sort that out. It’s no secret that Germany decided to flip the middle finger to Shengen ~6 months ago.

one of the job of the police supposed to actually check people's ID?

Please read about Shengen.

I suspect all the manual wardens are actually harvesting archive.org then focusing their effort on getting a high search rank. Notice if you expand archive.org’s filters, there is a subject preset for manualzilla and manualzz. So when liberating a manual, it also feeds the baddies. But nothing we can do on that.

I’ll probably change my habits to search archive.org first, before using a web search.

pic added to the OP

right, that’s why I assumed it’s a serial connection. But what device is meant to connect to it?

it’s probably not something I want to reverse engineer blindly. I was looking to find out if someone knows exactly what device is intended to connect to it and what info it gives. After getting the vague hint that a similar port on my boiler is apparently meant for sending SMSs, I want to know whether this is worth my effort.

I really wish I could buy a new model control panel and put it on an old model so I can get useable diagnostics. (maybe I can?) Really hard to accept there is a water supply issue. It fills fine and it knows when to stop filling. The pump is fine, and also clear when I drain it and examine behind the drain plug. Surely if there were a water supply issue it would not fill the tub then decide after filling the tub and making some a few short fast spins that there is a water supply issue. I’ll pull out the water filter and see if anything looks sketchy. But I somewhat suspect the speed controller since the tumble (wash) cycle is way too fast.

I wish I had an error code but when it faults out it just gives a non-stop steady blinking LED. No variation that would indicated an error code.

Multimeters can be used to simply find out if a part is working. I recently used it when I lost hot water. By reading the voltage of the flow sensor, it was clear that the flow sensor bad (water running should give voltage X and still water should give voltage Y). I’m not sure how many such opportunities there are with washing machines though.

Thanks for the references. Looks dicey though. I thought maybe this archive might give docs that are close enough to my model, but I could not get past the CAPTCHA. It also looks like a lot of docs on that site are in a cryllic language. But I appreciate your effort nonetheless. If I seem to have no other option I might try to get around the CAPTCHA somehow.

Youtube is also rough going. There seems to be an ocean of useless Beko review videos and not much on repairing. Youtube’s protectionism makes them quite hard to use lately but if I can get past the obsticles I might look for repair videos on machines other than Beko and see if any of them help well enough.

There’s a point where it will be easier to toss the machine and get another but so far I’m trying to resist that.

yeah i tried unplugging from the wall. I don’t know if there is a separate motor controller board or if the motor controller is integrated into the same board with all the controls. I’m not sure how risky it is to replace the main controller board as a guess. I would like some certainty on where the fault is.

And maybe it is the motor. It looks like it spins fine to me, but if it’s at the edge of its life maybe it’s giving feedback to the controller that signals an issue with the motor.

In the case at hand, every function seems to work. When I start a program it starts by pumping water out from the last program. Tub fills with water fine. But at the start of the wash cycle it attempts a high-speed spin with a full tub of water, which seems quite bizarre. Attempting a high-speed spin with water in the tub causes it to jump because of all the weight. It /should/ just slowly rotate in one direction, then the other direction. But instead it does a 2 second spin then pauses for a minute. Then it repeats that 2 second high-speed spin then pauses. After 4 or so repeats of that it quits and leaves a blinking start button.

My first thought was that it detected overloading or an imbalanced load and maybe tried to balance the load. But it does the same thing empty. The belt is fine and the motor is obviously strong enough to make it spin as far as I can tell. But maybe something that controls the motor is broken. I am stuck because I don’t know how to probe the various parts with my multimeter as far as what readings I should look for.

The machine has a spin-only program that should do nothing but spin. When I run that program, it obviously does not add water. It just starts the spin (as expected) but pauses 2 sec after starting to spin.. waits a min, then tries again. It looks like it spins fine but it’s giving up anyway.

Thanks. I had to translate it. It’s a troubleshooting guide for some common issues, but not my issue. I have the user manual for my model which has a troubleshooting table but it is not useful here.

I’m far from trying to track down the atomic component. I need to get an idea of what is failing. There should be readings I can take with the multimeter to see whether the motor is bad, or the controller for the motor, or something else. I’m not bothered at this point whether I can fix whatever part is broken. I might be fine with replacing a whole part. But I need to get there. I need to know which part is failing.

WMD 26125 T