126K likes, 1,815 comments - brookeraboutou on April 8, 2025: "•
Dear Excalibur,
Thank you for the lessons. From the start, I was drawn to you — something about your unrelenting intensity. Our relationship swayed over time. Some days felt like effortless harmony; on others, we fought, our voices ra...
I was belaying the other day with a BD GridLock Carabiner (see PDF if you're unfamiliar - it's labelled 'D') and a GriGri.
Had an issue that the GriGri worked its way around the carabiner and was pushing against the gate, essentially trying to open it. Now, obviously I did my pre-climbing checks and so the gate was screwed shut, but I was a little concerned anyway. So, I checked out the manual for the GridLock (see PDF) and it says you're meant to put a GriGri the other way around than when using an ATC. So, firstly, just FYI - this is the way Black Diamond say to do it, with the GriGri in the narrow end of the carabiner (that's the 'crotch' rather than the 'basket').
Okay, so far so good. But then I noticed that the same image suggests that you put the GridLock so that the gate is on the same side as the dead rope (right when belaying if you're right handed). I've always done it the other way around, so I was now additionally confused.
My partner is about 20% lighter than me, and wants to get a belay resistor. We've used the first version of the Ohm in the past, and didn't like the hard catch. We've had the Raed Zaed recommended, but it looks like the Ohm II might be better again.
I know it's only just been released, but does anyone have experience with both? Which would you recommend?
I'm a beginner climber and I got Evolv Shamans in my street size a few weeks ago since I read good reviews about them and I got them pretty cheap as they were in the discounted section of my local climbing shop, but only in that size. They've been great at allowing me to stand on small edges and get better height on my toes due to the thick rand, but they hurt like hell to wear, making the benefits I gain from using them somewhat moot, as I'm not able to climb and improve as much as I'd like to.
I've been wearing them around the house in addition to the gym in the hopes of breaking them in quicker (I've had to wear plastic bags on my feet to prevent blisters on my heels and toes from excessive friction) and I noticed they don't really seem to have broken in that much and still hurt my toes a lot (especially the tops of my big toes), so I'd like some recommendations for the next pair that I get.
I have Morton's toe/Greek feet and my feet are probably wider and less-arched than average