I have cut my teeth on the Ender 3 Pro v2 printer by Creality. Neat little printer; it works wonders when/if it’s perfectly dialed in. The thing is, I don’t have the interest to dial it in like it needs to be. I just want to turn it on, send it a print, and walk away. I do t want to spend all morning (like this morning) trying to “auto-level” 🙄 the bed, just to not have it be level.

When I try to manually level the bed it’s worse: I can measure one corner 5 times in a row, and get 5 wildly different heights each time. And I’m even using the Creality BL Touch sensor!

I have upgraded the springs, and I’m using the wide knob’s, and spent days trying to tune in my printer. I’m also using the Jyers Marlin firmware (15x15).

It’s exhausting and not fun. Help me Make Printing Fun Again. 😩

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.one/post/27366079

So I'm building a box turtle ams for my modded to all hell ender 3. My main idea was to create a filament cutter for the microswiss ng, but I cannot figure out a good way to do it with such a low filament travel path...which really sucks, as this is a very good hot end. Since I'm already doing this ams project, and have a wedding (very excited to marry my future wife) coming up, I really don't have the time for a second project. At this point I believe it will be easier to 3d print a voron hotend adapter to work with my ender 3, then to try and retrofit a filament cutter onto my ender 3 microswiss.

If you guys and gals know of anyone selling a completed one. Or have any ideas, please let me know!

Just a simple and (in my opinion) sleek phone stand. Link for anyone interested: printables.com/model/1251408-simple-static-phone-stand

As the title says, this is the best tolerance test I've been able to produce since I first started printing a few years ago. There's stringing, but that would be solved if I dried it, yes I dry pla too. This print is the Sci3d Clearance Test as downloaded in January 2023, from 0.5mm to 0.15mm clearances.

Every spinner is loose and easily moves, I actually had a bit of trouble with the center spindle due to a bit of over extrusion on the top layers.

My machine is a modified ender 3 pro with Klipper. Currently have a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle mounted with 0.2mm layer heights.

Sliced with the latest release prusaslicer, custom printer, filament, and print profiles.

The filament is one of my favorite PLAs, Voxel PLA, this one is red, but they all print the same for me.

Sorry for the boring post, but this was a huge achievement for me and basically everyone I know wouldn't understand the magnitude of this kind of repeatable precision on such a low cost machine.

I've been printing quite a few registration plates to hold parts in place in production that need to sit as flat as possible on the production jigs.

I've noticed that taking the finished parts off the bed of the printer too soon causes them to warp: they come off the bed looking nicely set and straight, but as they finish cooling down unsupported, they slowly warp until they finally fully reach room temperature after 10 or 15 minutes.

So now I let them cool down slowly on the bed of the printer after the print is done. Ideally I let the bed cool down to room temperature: then the parts readily separate naturally as they shrink. If I'm in a hurry, I'll still wait until the parts release with very little force, around 35C - but no hotter than that, to avoid warping - as in this video.

Okay, this is an update of my first method using regular paper to splice filaments that I posted last week. It was okay, but it did require cleaning the splice because some paper stuck to it.

Somewhiteguy suggested in this comment that baking paper might yield better results. And boy! does it ever!

I've been thinking about trying this the entire week. Finally I got me a roll of the cheapest baking paper I could find at the supermarket while doing the groceries for the weekend and gave it a shot.

It is SO MUCH BETTER!

And here, just to prove it, I filmed myself doing a splice in real-time (sorry for the harsh light and the flickering, I filmed this under neon light in the lab).

Less than 3 minutes from start to finish if you ignore me fumbling with my cellphone to film this. No cleanup, perfect splice, and the roll of baking paper cost me a dollar and

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/24358989

Looks like Bambu is getting more enshittified. I am so glad I didn't let my recent frustration at my clumsiness with my Prusa steer me into Bambu-land.

Here's a method I've developed to splice filaments almost to perfection without any tools. It's basically the Teflon tube method for cheapskates who don't want to buy Teflon tubing 🙂

First of all, prepare a 2" x 2" (50mm x 50mm) -ish piece of white paper and a straighten a piece of filament that will serve as a mandrel:

Roll up the paper into a tube around the piece of straightened filament as tight as you can. The hard bit is to start rolling: the paper needs to be really snug against the filament to start with.

Once it's started right, it's easy. Roll it up all the way nice and flat. The bit of filament inside should fit inside the tube with quite a lot of friction if you did it right:

![](https://lazysoci

Today I printed another one of this box. It's made of two half-shells that are printed with the outer face down on the bed.

The print went fine, but I'm not sure why, one of the half-shells had a whole area where the surface was really bad, with the criss-cross pattern all distorted, and even a single hole in the middle a good few layers deep. it was perfectly attached to the bed, and the print is otherwise perfect and functional. It just looks like crap.

Not wanting to spend another 2 hours reprinting it and wasting a working part, I figured I'd try chemically-polishing the heck out of it with acetone to improve its appearance a bit. Nothing to lose after all...

So lightly sanded the whole surface with 400-grit sandpaper and a block of wood to get rid of the most egregious defects, then I went to town on it with a clean microfiber cloth mounted on a straight edge and soaked with acetone.

I probably

And more strangely, does it suddenly go bad?

I printed this pair of glasses with a roll of ugly bright green PLA I use to print prototypes or silly things with - because, well, it's ugly - at the last minute to go to a party where the idea is to not look too serious.

But it took me three tries: the nose bridge readily broke off the first print without even trying very hard, and one hinge split in the middle before I could even drive a pin through it. I was really careful with this third print and I managed to complete the assembly and leave to go to the venue.

But it's really weird: this roll of PLA had been in the printer's room for at least 2 years, I and others have printed a million things with it without any problems as recently as last week - including multiple iterations of these glasses - and today the prints feel "dry", or less "waxy" that other PLA parts when I file them smooth, and they're really brittle.

Also, it's winter and here up north, it gets really dry in the w

My company ordered a 0.4mm ObXidian nozzle for our Prusa Mk4 printer. We ordered it because someone wanted to print something with abrasive carbon-fiber-reinforced filament.

It's mounted now and It's the same diameter as the stock nozzle we've been using so far. Since I had to run a print and the bgcode file was made for 0.4mm, I just ran the print with plain old PLA.

And... wow! The difference in quality is staggering. Particularly on vertical walls: they're so smooth and shiny, it's incredible. And the top surfaces are so much nicer and smoother than with the regular nozzle. I printed that particular print several times before and while it wasn't bad, it's never been that good.

I didn't realize the nozzle impacted the quality of the print that much.

I found a bunch of super-cheap kids sunglasses at the airport for my 3D-printed clip-on shades. No more concerns about UV damage 🙂

You can download the model here.

So, I redrew my custom shoe model in Blender because FreeCAD just can't create geometrically-correct, smooth, complex 3D surfaces like a shoe. This one looks much better

The entire mesh in Blender is error-free. When I export it as an .OBJ file, PrusaSlicer imports it without any problems (well, it's not oriented correctly but that's easily fixed).

However, when I export it as an .STL file, PrusaSlicer imports it okay, but complains that the file contains 677,376 errors - out of 677,376 facets 🙂.

It seem to slice it without issues though so I assume the facets in the STL file are just missing something unimportant. But just in case: does anybody know what's missing in my Blender model that could cause that error?

If you want to try it for yourself, the STL file is here and the Blender file is here.

(I ha